Centuries ago, some of India’s most adventurous maritime explorers set sail from Kalinga (now Odisha) in October or November. This journey by what were called Boitas (larger boars and ships) took these Sadhabas (mariner merchants) to distant lands like Sri Lanka and Southeast Asia. It’s come to be known as the Bali Jatra, a journey that has been immortalised in the Boita Bandana festival that is celebrated for a week or more in Cuttack, Odisha. Now a fine dining restaurant at the first luxury hotel in Puri pays tribute and aims to become a hub for modern culinary explorers seeking a whole new dining experience.
Jaatra at the Taj Puri Resort and Spa is arguably one of the most interesting restaurant brands the Taj Group has unveiled this decade since Loya. It’s a bold move to dedicate the hotel’s only speciality restaurant to a fascinating blend of Odia and Southeast Asian cuisines. And it’s a move that could set a new standard in Eastern India’s dining scene.
Puri has always been a hub for spiritual travel. Odisha’s best-known beach destination is now riding a new wave of tourism sparked by the region’s Golden Beach earning Blue Flag status in 2020. The Taj Puri that’s located in a quiet corner off the Marine Drive Road offers sweeping beach views from every room and public area of the hotel. Jaatra is no exception. The restaurant is close to the ocean and offers a choice of an indoor seating area and an atmospheric al-fresco deck seating area set by the pool. We’d recommend you go al-fresco for dinner, especially if it’s date night.
Photo: Taj Puri Resort And Spa
The restaurant features subtle design elements that make a connection with the Bali Jatra. Every year people gather on the banks of rivers like Mahanadi on Kartika Purnima and float miniature toy boats to remember their ancestors’ voyage. There’s a large map at Jaatra, the restaurant’s showstopper that showcases the ancient maritime routes of the Sadhabas and a stunning roof with artefacts that remind you of the sailboats. The splashes of blue add to the maritime vibe. The Jaatra experience doesn’t stop with the interiors.
While the Bali Jatra dates back many centuries, the genesis for Jaatra goes back to IHM Kolkata. Author Roopali Mohanti’s deep understanding of Odia culture and cuisine complemented Chef Sabyasachi Gorai’s repertoire, a partnership rooted in the bustling kitchens of their alma mater IHM Kolkata.
Photo: Taj Puri Resort And Spa
Back then sailors from Kalinga (now Odisha) carried ingredients like rice, jaggery, turmeric, ginger, and pepper to the bustling ports of Burma, Ceylon, Siam, Sumatra, and Java, where these goods were highly valued. In return, they brought back precious cloves and nutmeg from the spice isles, camphor and cinnamon from Ceylon, palm sugar from Malaya, and exotic tropical fruits. While this might seem like an exchange of commodities, what they actually carried with them was culture. It led to a fascinating intermingling of cultures and flavours. It’s this interplay that Sabyasachi Gorai and Roopali Mohanti aim to capture on the showplates at Jaatra. This is Odisha cuisine but in a whole new context with South Asian influences and techniques.
The Jaatra version of the Manda Pitha incorporates plant meat. The Manda Pitha is one of Odisha’s best-known dishes; this steamed dumpling is quite similar to the modak in Maharashtra and is crafted with rice flour. While the traditional version typically contains coconut, moong, jaggery, black pepper and chhena, we thoroughly enjoyed the Jaatra twist. Our favourite was the Jaatra spin on the Muri aloo chop, a popular street food in Odisha served with puffed rice. This aloo chop comes with sambal.
Fish wrapped in banana leaf.Photo: Taj Puri Resort And Spa
Some of the mains that stood out included the Tofu Mulligatawny Stew with Truffled Mushroom and Noodle Paratha and the Mamak Mutton Stew with Sticky Rice. The highlight of our meal was the fish wrapped in banana leaf and charred. This is a cooking technique that is widely used in India and Southeast Asia. No big meal in Odisha is complete without a sweet ending, while the Peanut Butter Tart might look pretty on your Instagram feed, it was the unassuming chenna poda cheesecake that hit the right notes.
Peanut Butter Tart.Photo: Taj Puri Resort And Spa
Jaatra finds a delicate balance with retaining authentic Odia flavours while incorporating modern techniques and influences from Southeast Asia. Most of all it’s the textures that stand out. While Odisha’s ancient explorers had to brave the uncertainties of the ocean, it’s a lot easier for the 2020s culinary explorers looking for a new burst of flavours and textures along the beach.
Jaatra is at Taj Puri Resort and Spa and is open for lunch and dinner